GOLD
Best Dark Ale // Dark Matter
I first tasted Sean Hoyne’s beer more than 30 years ago when I moved to Victoria from Ontario and discovered Swans Brewpub where he began his brewing career. Of the core list of four or five regular beers on tap, my favourite was Appleton Brown Ale with Buckerfield Bitter a close second. I also remember enjoying the Bavarian Lager that was available from time to time. Sean Hoyne moved over to the Canoe Brewpub when it opened in 1996, and the quality of the beer list was always high there, too. And then finally in 2011 he was able to open his own brewery in the Rock Bay industrial district.
Hoyne Brewing’s original lineup included a mysterious beer called Dark Matter, which the brewery has always marketed as a beer of mysterious origins: “It is more easily described by what it isn’t. It is not as roasted as a stout, nor is it as sweet or high in alcohol as a porter. And don’t even mention brown ale in the same breath.” Whether it’s the mystery or simply the fact that it just tastes so good, Dark Matter has been one of BC’s favourite beers for much of the time it’s been brewed. And while I gravitate more towards Hoyne’s excellent lagers myself, I never complain if I happen to discover a glass of Dark Matter in front of me.
And if you’ve wondered about the mystery of why there isn’t a tasting room at the brewery, you will be very happy indeed to learn that enigma will soon be resolved. Yes, Hoyne Brewing will finally open its very own tasting room early in 2026. Just imagine sitting down there and seeing a tall glass of Dark Matter materialize in front of you.
